Hao! (Atoll number 2)

Lying just 15 miles south of Amanu, Hao is geographically the fourth largest atoll in the Tuamotus and boasts a relatively large population: 1000 inhabitants as of the 2022 census. As I mentioned in the last post, the Pass Kaki has a fearsome reputation, a reason I think it’s not exactly on the Cruiser Highway.

It was, however, on our list of atolls to visit. Actually, every atoll with a passable pass is on our list of atolls to visit, though whether we manage to make that goal a reality remains to be seen. There’s that timing question, after all.

Hao was once the command central for the French nuclear testing operations that took place on a couple of atolls (Muroroa and Fangatuafa) to the south, atolls that remain off limits to visitors because of uranium contamination. The French Navy set up camp with lavish accommodations, stores, clubs, and brought a sense of prosperity (including electricity) to the inhabitants. When the Navy left in 2002, they took all the prosperity with them, including that electricity which was turned off without notice overnight. The buildings have been repurposed, most now serving as homes for locals.

The pass is well-marked by very well-maintained navigational marks, meaning large ships can go in and out of the pass with ease even if the current is running. As Jeremy put it, ships carrying tons of nuclear material went in and out of there, so trusting the marks isn’t much in doubt.

We spent a few days at the anchorage in the old Navy basin, about a mile walk (or short dinghy ride) from the main part of town. You can opt to tie your boat to the dock if you wish, but we preferred to anchor and swing to the wind. This protected basin is both shallower than the town dock area and also has no coral heads to worry about; boats anchored off of town reported issues with wrapping chain around deep heads, making anchor retrieval difficult.

The gendarmes in Hao ask that everyone check in with them, even if you have already checked into the country elsewhere. We spent a lovely half hour or more talking with them; the head guy was from Tahiti and had spent his required training year in France, while his second in command was a local Hao guy who hadn’t yet been to France. They took us into the back rooms of the office and pointed out their favorite atolls on the map on the wall, advised us on where we might ask about doing laundry, and mentioned their favorite spot to get a bite to eat (we didn’t find it, sadly.)

There are 4 different grocery stores in the village, each one with something different to offer. The most unexpected item we’ve seen in absolutely every store so far in French Polynesia? Skippy peanut butter. I kid you not. It’s not cheap, but it is there. Strange.

*Outside of one of the grocery stores. Under new management!*

After reprovisioning, we headed down to the southern end of the atoll, heading for the tomb of the giant king. We expected to find remoteness with the occasional rustic camp - instead, we found almost continuous evidence of habitation, including at the very tippy end of the atoll. Were these people on the run from the law? Hermits who preferred a life of deep isolation? We saw one guy when we were walking in the dense coconut grove but he completely ignored us, not reacting at all to waves and calls of “K’Ia Orana! Bonjour!” Maybe he had earbuds in, or maybe he was deaf. Or maybe he just had chosen this life of isolation and didn’t want to interact in any way with outsiders.

A couple of days at the far south end, a couple of days further up along the coast, and another day or two at yet another anchorage before we headed back to the basin anchorage when we saw a second supply ship en route. Maybe we’d get some more vegetables! Not to be, though - this ship wasn’t one that the grocery stores use for supplies of fresh goods. New bicycles, gasoline containers, huge containers of fresh water? All those and more. We saw palettes of juice in tetra paks; the refrigerated containers, though, didn’t mention the town on the side.

*Another idyllic anchorage shot. There’s an abandoned pearl farm off our bow.*

*Water containers, fresh off the Nuku Hao*

Staples like flour and powdered milk, canned butter and a few new canned vegetables to try (ratatouille anyone?) filled our lockers; we restocked the beer supply. And then we lifted the dinghy and got ready for an overnight sail to Raroia.