Penrhyn Magic — Fit2Sail

*View out from maybe an old ferry terminal*

We spent the month of June, 2026, in Tongareva (Penrhyn), northern Cook Islands.

It is hard to overstate how much we loved our time in Tongareva. From the very first interaction with officials before we arrived (Puna, the island administrator, who helped us access New Zealand currency for our clearance fees) we felt welcomed with open arms. The officials who stepped on board to clear us in made sure to let us know about local expectations on Sundays (church only, basically), a point we appreciated because it made it very easy to respect the culture! They also invited us to church, and to a birthday party for a 1 year old. One woman in Omoka, working on prepping the coconut fibers for the local weaving craft, invited us to sit and chat and learn about the work she was doing. (When we asked the man of the house if he knew how to do the work, he almost fell off his seat laughing.)

*Penrhyn is the sharkiest spot we’ve been to so far*

And then there was Kura, the matriarch and “mama” in Te Tautua village. She maintains a visitors’ book for cruisers to sign. It’s a fascinating scrapbook of all dimensions, with some pretty basic “we were here” stuff and some entries pages long of all the things people did while there. It’s really fun to read through and see the kinds of boats that make it; that’s just one lens through which to peruse the book. Luckily you get to keep it on board for a bit of time! They’re on volume 2, though sadly Volume 1 has been whisked away to New Zealand with her father, the man who started the tradition. We hope it makes its way back to the island soon.

*Creativity abounds in that book! (I forgot to take a photo of our entry . . . guess we’ll have to go back.)*

For an island that doesn’t seem to have a lot - 3 supply ships a year, maybe, with not a lot of growing options on a desert-island like motu - the people are generous and love an excuse to celebrate, and celebration is all about the food. There was that 1 year old’s party (which we missed but other friends attended). When a traditional sailing boat came in (the project of a non-profit aimed at collecting traditional stories and preserving the culture) the entire village turned out with songs and drums, speeches and a feast of all kinds of dishes.

*The crew of the Paikea, a traditional craft, comes into Kura’s dock. Everyone is filming the singing on shore.*

*The crew of the Paikea, at the feast table*

We made dinner for Kura and her family one night, pizza on the grill ashore for 14 or 20 people or so. She cooked a chicken and a couple of pots of rice, just to make sure there was enough food.

*Kura and her brother, Tamu, helping Jeremy with the pizza*

*Fish cleaning station by day, pizza prep by night*

I got a lesson in making the coconut pancakes that are a staple.

*In Kura’s kitchen, flattening pancake batter*

And then, just a few days before our 30 day visas were set to expire, there was a birthday party for Celia, a little girl who was turning 9. On June 26, which is also my birthday. I was immediately folded into the celebration, with my own cake and a flower lei and singing just for me.

*Kura making leis. I had no idea what they were for!*

*Celia and I each had a cake. In Penrhyn, singing happens BEFORE the feast!*

*Feast table, maybe half full from the eventual spread. At the end is a whole roast pig.*

*The singing and music continued far into the night*

The morning we left, Kura insisted we come ashore for breakfast and coffee. She presented us with shell necklaces, adorned with shells she called “the heart of Penrhyn”. “You’re taking the heart of Penryhn with you. I will never forget you.”

*Inside Kura’s home, Jeremy’s heart of Penrhyn visible.*

*My heart of Penrhyn is displayed on the port side*

*We also bought a fan from Kura. Note the fine detail.*

We will never forget Kura, or Penrhyn. What a special, special spot.