The Societies — Fit2Sail

Of the archipelagos in French Polynesia, the Societies is the one that most people have heard of. Maybe not in the general term, but in islands. Tahiti specifically. Maybe Bora Bora. This island group is busier, more populated. More cosmopolitan.

*Approaching Tahiti at night. Moon, sun, city lights, red nav light on the sail.*

French Polynesia’s relationship with cruisers is a complicated one. There’s a fair amount of resentment towards foreigners, those from mainland French in particular, wrapped up in the independence movement and what is seen as mismanagement during COVID times. There is no argument that there are lots of boats with very few facilities to deal with them. Flare ups of animosity are not uncommon, and while we experienced only one uncomfortable situation (oddly from the mayor in Fakarava) others we know have not been so lucky. The Societies is where most of the animosity seems focused and it’s likely to get worse before it gets better. We were not anxious to spend too much time in these islands, however beautiful they might be. There are official anchoring restrictions in many places (whether they are logical, enforced, or just mostly complained about by both locals and cruisers is another issue altogether) and other places where locals have decided that regardless of official stance, they’re not interested in having boats be there.

*Call port control before entering Papeete harbor*

We spent the month of May in the Societies, anchoring in Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, and Bora Bora. We didn’t get to the far out islands of Maupiti and Mopelia (also called Maupi’haa). In our scheme of things, not a lot of time. It was just about right.

Tahiti, the busiest and most populous, was a 20 hour surgical strike. We’d spent close to three weeks in Tahiti when family was visiting at Christmas time and didn’t feel the need to do more than reprovision and do laundry at the only pay laundromat we saw in the entire country. One (marginal) anchorage, one night, and off we went.

Moorea, specifically Cooks Bay, remains the most beautiful spot I’ve ever seen. We didn’t get to Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas so I can’t compare to that, but Cook’s Bay scenery is unreal. This time around we focused on the southern side and anchored only at Ha’apiti Bay. We’d have liked more time, but weather offered a good sail to Huahine.

*Moonrise over Ha’apiti Bay, Tahiti in the background*

Once you sail the almost 80 nm from Mo’orea to Huahine, you’re in the Ils Sou Le Vent (the leewards), where the main islands of Huahine, Raiatea, Taha’a, and Bora Bora are all within easy distance of each other. The wind isn’t always cooperative, but leaving that aside there are no overnights or even full days of sailing required. As you might imagine, charter boats abound. We quickly got used to seeing the charter cats with their logo-blazing sail covers.

Huahine was probably our favorite of the islands. Slightly quieter and sleepier, there are multiple anchoring options on the west side of the island and one spot in particular at the far southern end where there are moorings as well as anchoring possibility. There’s a resort that is extremely welcoming to cruisers (not often the case especially in FP) and their support makes it an even better stop. We anchored in 4 different spots, joined friends on their rental car excursion around the island, and generally were surprised by how much we liked it.

*Hanging with Samantha and David from Boundless in Huahine!*

Raiatea was next up. Stunning scenery of high mountains, reef anchorages with blue water. We were there right before a particularly nasty flare up of tensions in the northern anchorage, the one right off the boatyard, and instead enjoyed a couple of days of spectacular scenery and a glorious sail inside the reef.

*Sailing inside the reef along gorgeous Raiatea*

Taha’a was a spot for a night. Jeremy got in a foiling session (high on his priority list), we were not chased off, and then we had weather to head to Bora Bora.

Bora Bora, of honeymoon fame. There is essentially no anchoring allowed (2 specific spots in the whole island, a limit of 36 hours total) and you are required to take a mooring. $60 US for a night, or $40 a night for more than one night. A month is a relative bargain at $600. There are mooring fields in multiple locations. We spent 4 nights in Bora Bora before clearing out to head to Penrhyn.

We know plenty of cruisers who spend months meandering between these islands. The Societies offer easy provisioning, restaurants and night life, and pretty scenery. It’s a little harder to find out-of-the-way places if you like to be more alone. Sailing can be spectacular if you wait for the right winds.

*Bora Bora rainbow. Check out all the charter cats on the moorings!*

We prefer other archipelagos but there is no denying that the Societies have their own appeal.