Rangiroa! (number 11 . . .)

We hadn’t quite known what to expect from Rangiroa. It’s the largest and most populated atoll in French Polynesia, and is a hotbed of tourist activity. There’s even a resort with those over-the-water bungalows that are such a stereotype of South Pacific vacation brochures. Reviews from cruisers are mostly positive, though sprinkled occasionally with tales of anchoring restrictions and less-than-welcoming attitudes. After Fakarava, we were wary.

*For a mere $900 a night, you too could stay here*

No wariness required. Everyone we met in Rangiroa is welcoming, friendly, and relaxed. Stopping at the pass-front restaurant for a late morning beer while we dolphin watched, or returning to have an inexpensive lunch? Smiles and quick service. Asking at the store if there are eggs? “Not today, but if you go to the other town buy from Rangiroa Market and not Maeva since the price is 400 cheaper at Rangiroa.” Renting a scooter? Just hand over money and they give you the key, show you how to work the helmets, and help you get onto the road.

Anchoring was straightforward. Despite what a couple of people reported on NoForeignLand, there are no official restrictions for boats less than 80 feet. We found a place to drop the hook near the Kia Ora resort in good sand, with enough bommies around that we floated our chain. The two other spots we anchored along the coast were not as clear but still doable. All boats that went by us waved and smiled.

We indulged in some solid tourist activities while on Rangiroa, the first ones since arriving in French Polynesia in April.

*Calypso coming in Tiputa Pass, photo courtesy Jemma on Obelix*

Scooter rental. We’d initially thought we’d rent bicycles, or e-bikes, to explore this very flat atoll with its almost 5 miles of roadway. When we stopped by the rental spot in the morning, there was a scooter available. For the same cost for a day as 2 e-bikes would have been. We happily grabbed the scooter. Seeing people sweating along on bikes and e-bikes while we zoomed along cooled by our self-created breeze made us feel pretty good about that option. The only thing we did wrong, in hindsight, was renting the scooter on a day that turned out to be a national holiday, meaning most of the stores were closed in the afternoon and the winery (a winery on an atoll!) was closed.

And then there was the big one.

*Late morning beer overlooking the pass*

Tattoos.

*Tattoo parlor aka Happiness Boutique (okay, not the same place. But kind of.)*

For years, I’ve been talking about wanting to get a tattoo to commemorate the crossing from Panama to French Polynesia. Tattoos aren’t my thing, generally, but this felt like a milestone worth marking in some way. As I read more about tattoos and cultural significance, it became more and more important to me to have a tattoo done by a Marquesan artist. An important cultural practice for the Polynesians, tattooing was suppressed almost to the point of extinction by the growing missionary influence. The Marquesans are working hard to reclaim parts of their cultural heritage, from language to tattooing, and I wanted to honor that.

Moana of Tematakena Tattoo on Rangiroa is from Nuku Hiva; he moved to Rangiroa in 2021 “for love”. He’d apparently been renowned on Nuku Hiva for his artistry. The images I saw of his work captivated me, all fine lines and deft details. After a little back and forth, we determined we’d be at his studio early on Tuesday morning.

The appointment starts with a conversation about ideas you might have around images or placement or size, and shifts to a conversation about your story. What is important in your life? What aspects do you want commemorated in your tattoo? Moana is taking notes as you’re speaking. He then grabs a highlighter to sketch a very rough outline of approximate position and size. Once that’s approved, he goes to work with a fine-line pen, freehand drawing the symbols onto your skin. One more chance for approval or to ask for any changes, and then he goes to work with the tattoo pen.

*Voyaging symbols, interspersed with birds*

*Lots of voyaging, protection, ancestry . . .*

Jeremy had been mulling over the idea in his head, and once he saw the process from start to finish he jumped at the chance. Moana repeated the process with him, talking about his life story and what Jeremy might be wanting. Details included deciding on which leg - left signifies more emotion, while the right side is more action.

We hadn’t come to Rangiroa thinking we’d leave with pieces of art, but it seems a fitting way to approach the end of our Tuamotus adventure. My tattoo, after all, shows this journey as continuing . . .

Rangiroa. 10 out of 10 would recommend.