BVI Magic — Fit2Sail

Why yes, the BVI is still magical.

There’s been a lot of lamentation about how the BVI has changed drastically over the past xxx years, Overrun with charterers. Too many moorings. On and on it goes. And while I don’t dispute that there are a lot of moorings in places that used to be all anchorage space, or that there seem to be a disproportionate number of charter (catamarans, mostly) boats to cruisers, the fact remains that there’s a LOT about the BVI that is still completely amazing.

For starters, there’s the sailing. Oh man, the sailing. Sir Francis Drake channel provides some darn flat water to enjoy the breeze, even if we have still not seen any of the fabled trades. Choose an anchorage destination, set off, and even if you have to beat into it, it’s flat water and awesome sailing. Or, even if the breeze is mild and light, you can sail slowly in the flat water. Wind is even lighter than expected? Fine. Shift to a closer anchorage and just keep enjoying the sailing.

*Light air sailing into Sopers Hole, Tortola.*

Then there is the sheer variety of anchorages. You can certainly choose to be among the vast numbers of charter cats (hint - if there are a ton of mooring balls, there are likely to be a large concentration of charter cats) - but you can also find the spots where nobody else is. In our first week of anchoring in the BVI, we found ourselves in solitary anchorages more than half the time - with the other days mostly with only one other boat. A lot of charter companies provide a “don’t miss these spots” itinerary of sorts. While some of those “don’t miss” spots are indeed ones we won’t miss when our kids fly in for the holidays in a week (cough the Baths) and North Sound), other ones are on that list because of some (supposedly) amazing restaurant or other. Give us solitude at the base of a cliff, where we get entranced by goat drama and are captivated by ospreys wheeling overhead and spotted eagle rays gliding under the hull . . .

We’ve seen turtles in every anchorage so far. Watched the anchor puff up a cloud of sand as it hits bottom in 20 feet. Marveled at the full moon rising in the cleft between 2 hills precisely off of the transom. (Quietly) screeched with delight at the pair of 6 foot tarpon who came to investigate the neon light of our Luci lights in the cockpit.

What an incredible introduction back into the cruising life. Lucky, lucky us.